Application Instructions

Thanks for purchasing Cyclomondo’s decals and hopefully together we can restore, refurbish and rescue many beautiful vintage frames.

• The 1st  rule in applying the decals is do not soak them in water.

These decals have an adhesive which is water resistant and are basically peel and stick

Preparation

Saying that, there are some important processes that you should adhere to so as to make this a smooth exercise.

1. First identify if the decal has had application paper (transparent) applied over the decal. Application paper has a slightly rough surface texture and the decal will be thicker - having that extra layer. In each set you might find a mixture of decals with or without application paper.

2. Trim any excess of the decal, or separate individual decals that share the same sheet, with scissors making sure you don’t cut into the printed area.

3. Then, clean the area of the frame with a dilute solution of water and detergent (common dishwashing liquid is fine – just a couple of drops in a bowl or cup/glass) and wipe clean with cotton.

I use the finest vinyl available and any thinner it would distort like cling wrap. This vinyl is essential in imitating the appearance of the tricky water slide transfers and also pressure rub application types. The solid inks I use have better opacity than water slide transfers and also don’t have the compatibility issues with modern paints that water slides also suffer.

Choose wet or dry application

Now you have to make the choice of whether you do a dry application or wet application.

• A dry application is where the decal goes onto a dry frame. The benefits of this method are in that the frame can be clear-coated (if you wish but not necessary) without waiting a long period for any moisture to dry from under the decal. The disadvantage is that you only get one chance to get it right, as once stuck, the decal can’t be moved.

• A wet application allows a more forgiving application technique, but if you are to apply a clear-coat, then you should wait a lengthy time after application so as the clear-coat isn’t spoiled by residual moisture.

If you encounter any problems peeking the decal off the backing paper try using a sewing needle or fine tweezers to pull up one edge of the decal.

Wet method

A  Without transparent application tape over the decal

1. Wet the frame area again with the same diluted detergent solution so it’s very wet and then

2. Peel the backing paper off the decal (usually marked ‘Avery’)

3. Apply a fine mist of water/detergent to the sticky side of the decal

4. Then stick the decal onto the frame. Being wet and slippery allows the decal to be slid into position if it is not straight and also allows any trapped bubbles to be squeezed out. The water/detergent solution does not harm the adhesive on the decal – in fact it will probably be stuck firmer once everything is dry. It is important to not have the decal ‘grab’ or stick in the wrong position.

B With application tape over the decal such as you would find with a series of letters such as a down tube decal saying COLNAGO or MERCKX for example, then application is basically the same process plus one more step.

1. Wet the frame area, peel off the ‘Avery’ backing paper and spray a fine mist of water / detergent solution to the back of the decal

2. Apply the decals which are attached to transparent application tape to the frame and position

3. Smooth out and let sit for several hours. When confident that decals are stuck, then grab the corner of the application tape and peel at an acute angle away from the frame leaving the decals installed. If there are any air bubbles that may be trapped (unusual), if they cannot be massaged out of the decal then a simple pin prick to the centre of the bubble, followed by a squeezing out of the air and a smoothing will cure the problem.

4. When confident the decals are stuck, then grab the corner of the application tape at an acute angle and slowly remove the layer of application tape revealing the decals underneath.

Finishing

The decals are heat foil printed in a dry print process which makes them color fast and UV safe which in comparison to normal commercial inkjet printing is near ideal. Clear coating is safe but not essential as long as the usual guidelines are followed and heavy solvents aren’t used in the preparation. Thin mist of clear followed by a heavier coat.

Hope this helps!

I am always available at        gtsoftley@ozemail.com.au for any distress calls!

Greg Softley (Cyclomondo)